John Gill is  the most important figure in North American bouldering, and one of the most inportant in the world. From the late 1950's to the 1980's  this quiet mathematician established some of the finest, and hardest,  boulder problems in the world. The majority of them still command respect today. He applied his considerable athletic talents to the rather steady world of climbing that then existed. His use of strength, the ability to do a one finger pull up and one arm front lever, superb technique and joy in ariel moves revolutionised bouldering.

His friend and climbing partner, Pat Ament, writes an affectionate and lucid biography and history of Gill's exploits.